There are certain pieces I find myself returning to again and again, both in my own jewelry collection and when I’m working with clients. Serpentine front-to-back earrings have definitely become one of them!
What Are Front-to-Back Earrings?
If you’re not familiar with a front-to-back, the idea is pretty simple: instead of all of the design living on the front of the ear, part of the earring attaches from behind, so you see diamonds both in front of and underneath the lobe. The result is much more diamond showing on the ear than you typically get from a traditional hoop, where a good portion of the stones inevitably end up facing away from you.
I love a great hoop, but front-to-backs give us so much more to work with. Continuing the design behind the ear means we can play with different stones, shapes, proportions and movement - and actually see all of it when the earring is being worn. They give you a really big look on the ear while still being incredibly easy to wear, which is exactly what I’m always looking for in jewelry.
They’ve also become one of our design team’s favorite styles to work on because there really is no formula. We can make a pair entirely in diamonds and keep the design more refined, or mix cuts, bring in colored stones and really play with scale. The basic construction may be relatively simple, but the possibilities for what we can do with it are pretty endless.
They Light Up the Face
There is a reason these earrings look particularly good once they’re on! Because the stones aren’t confined to a single point on the lobe, they catch light from several different angles as you move.
I love the way they frame the face, particularly with hair pulled back or tucked behind the ear. You see flashes of stone from the front and side rather than one concentrated point of sparkle, and there is a sense of movement that you don’t get from a traditional stud.
More Interesting Than a Classic Hoop
A great pair of diamond hoops will always have a place in a jewelry collection, but I think of front-to-backs as the next step when you want something equally wearable with considerably more design interest.
The result is an earring that can carry an entire look on its own but doesn’t feel reserved for evening. That balance is important to me. The jewelry I find most successful is usually the jewelry that feels special without needing a special occasion.
Comfortable Enough for Everyday Wear
Wearability is something I think about constantly, particularly with earrings. It doesn’t matter how beautiful something is if the construction makes you aware of it all day.
With a well-made front-to-back, the relationship between the front and back of the earring is part of the design. The weight needs to feel balanced, the stones need to sit in the right position, and the earring should follow the ear rather than pull away from it.
That engineering is not necessarily the first thing you notice when you look at a pair, but it is often what determines whether they become earrings you wear once a month or earrings you reach for several times a week.
One of My Favorite Gifts to Give
Front-to-backs are also one of the pieces I recommend most often for gifts because they solve a surprisingly difficult jewelry problem: they feel personal without requiring much information from the person buying them.
There is no ring size or wrist measurement to figure out, and we can adjust the scale and stones depending on the person. A smaller diamond version can be incredibly chic, while mixed shapes or colored stones give you something with a little more personality and edge.
I also like that they aren’t necessarily something everyone thinks to buy for themselves. The best gifts, in my opinion, often fall into that category - something you can wear constantly, but perhaps wouldn’t have thought to choose on your own.
Endless Possibilities
This is where front-to-backs become particularly interesting to me as a jeweler. At Serpentine, we’ve made them in emeralds and diamonds, mixed-shape diamonds, multicolor sapphires, and many variations in between.
The format gives us enough space to make very specific design choices about shape and color. We can graduate stones around the ear, mix cuts that play differently with light, or use colored gemstones as punctuation between diamonds. Even changing the orientation of a pear or marquise can alter the entire rhythm of the earring.
That’s the part I enjoy most. There is a recognizable front-to-back silhouette, but within it, there is an enormous amount of room to make the piece feel individual!
The Earrings that Earn Their Keep
I tend to judge jewelry by how often I actually want to wear it, and front-to-backs have become one of those pieces I reach for without really thinking about it. They have all the ease of a great hoop, but there’s simply more happening: more dimension around the ear, more opportunity to play with unusual stones and shapes, and more to look at from every angle.
They can be subtle enough for every day or significant enough to carry an entire look, but either way, they never need much else around them. They’re interesting without being difficult to wear, which is a balance I’m always looking when I design.
And that’s ultimately why front-to-backs have become one of my favorite Serpentine designs. We can keep reinventing them, our clients actually live in them, and I never get tired of putting on a pair. For me, that’s usually the sign of a very successful piece of jewelry.